The Sarcidano is the historical region in which we find ourselves, with Isili being one of its main centers. This area, characterized by hills, plateaus, valleys, and lakes, serves as a bridge between the Campidano and Barbagia regions. While Sarcidano lacks tall mountains, you can see the snowy peaks of the Gennargentu during the colder months. The gentle slopes of the region are dotted with small villages devoted to agriculture and livestock farming. Activities that have shaped the landscape for centuries without erasing the presence of lush forests that thrive in many parts of the territory.
Describing Sarcidano as a wild region wouldn’t be accurate; civilization has existed here for millennia, as evidenced by numerous significant archaeological sites scattered across the area. The region’s landscape and history intertwine harmoniously, with millennia-old structures blending seamlessly into the scenery alongside towns and the narrow-gauge railway that winds through hills and valleys toward the mountains of Barbagia and Ogliastra. Even the lakes here, though man-made, appear to merge naturally with the environment, as if they’ve always been part of it. Many locals still remember how the landscape looked before the lakes were created.
Arriving from Cagliari via the SS 128, you’ll pass through the plains of the Campidano and the gentle slopes of the Trexenta. As you near Mandas, the landscape begins to change, revealing the first hills: you are entering Sarcidano. The road becomes slightly more winding, and in the distance, you’ll spot the mountains of Barbagia, separated by a long sequence of valleys and plateaus.
The first plateau you’ll encounter is the Giara di Serri, home to the Sanctuary of Santa Vittoria of Serri. In the valley below, you’ll pass Escolca and Gergei, two villages renowned for their olive groves, which produce top-quality olive oil. These towns extend toward the southwest, bordering the Marmilla, and are particularly close to Barumini, just a 20-minute drive from Isili. On the other side of Sarcidano lie Nurri and Orroli, two of the region’s most populated towns alongside Isili, known for their excellent wines and cheeses. Nurri hosts the Cooperativa Pastori, where you can purchase the finest dairy products from Sarcidano. Nurri is also one of the towns bordering the Lago del Medio Flumendosa, one of Sardinia’s largest artificial reservoirs, where you can enjoy fantastic boat trips aboard a Mississippi-style steamboat. Continuing in that direction, you’ll reach Orroli, famous for its Gigante Rosso, the Nuraghe Arrubiu. Orroli also has the good fortune of being bathed by another large artificial lake: the Mulargia.
Continuing in that direction, you’ll reach Orroli, famous for its Gigante Rosso, the Nuraghe Arrubiu, and bordered by another large artificial lake, the Mulargia. Heading north from Isili, you’ll encounter other villages. The first is Nurallao, an excellent destination for hikes and picnics in its forests, where you can admire the Is Arinus waterfalls. From Nurallao, you can choose to head toward Nuragus and Genoni or toward Laconi.
In Nuragus, you can visit the Santu Millanu nuraghe and the sacred well of Coni. Legend has it that the territory also contains remains of the ancient Roman city of Valentia. From here, it’s easy to reach the Giara di Gesturi by continuing toward Genoni, where you can visit the Museum of the Giara Horse, the Paleo-Archeo Center, and arrange a guided tour of the Giara with museum staff.
Laconi is a historically significant town in Sarcidano, home to an ancient castle that played a key role during the Giudicati period and later under Spanish rule. Though the castle is now in ruins, its remains can be admired in the beautiful Aymerich Park, named after the Spanish noble family that owned it for centuries. In the town center, you can visit the palace of these Spanish nobles as well as the birthplace of Fra Ignazio of Laconi, a saint widely revered across Sardinia.
Sarcidano also borders Barbagia di Seulo, with Villanova Tulo marking the boundary. This hillside village, located near the banks of the Flumendosa, is surrounded by wild forests. The town offers a picturesque view of the Lago del Medio Flumendosa, where there’s also a docking point for boat tours. The village is decorated with beautiful murals by Pinuccio Sciola, dedicated to Benvenuto Lobina, a renowned writer who hailed from Villanova Tulo. His masterpiece, Po Cantu Biddanoa, set in this “village-universe,” recounts the lives of its inhabitants between the First and Second World War. Among Villanova Tulo’s archaeological sites, the Nuraghe Adoni stands out—a large complex with four towers built around a central keep atop an 800-meter hill, surrounded by remnants of a village.
